InvictusGuide.PDF

2.5 In the Cabin Area

The cabin is divided into two sections, Salon and V-Berth.

When seated in the salon, take note of the following equipment:

1. Sink and Icebox. Directly below and behind the companionway stairs. Icebox is stowed with cover open – this is to air it out. The sponge inside the icebox is for cleaning it out – there is no icebox drain. The sink pump is manual and pumps fresh water from the tank. There is a drawer and a storage compartment beneath the sink. Lubricants, cleaners, bug spray, a fuel mixture measuring cup and the like are kept in a basket in this compartment.

2. “Behind the Sink” Compartment directly behind the sink. Contains Bilge Pump Handle, Air Horn, Manual Horn, Winch Handle, Bell, Flyswatter and CupHolders.

3. Electrical panel (black panel mounted on starboard wall next to sink). There are four switches (cabin, running, aux (anchor light) and radio). Note that all of the running lights are on a single switch – i.e., that you can’t separately operate the steaming light. The compass light is also connected to the running lights switch. The combination Depth/Knotmeter switch is located below the battery on/off switch located on the companionway bulkhead. Each of the switches is independently fused. The radio and depth/knotmeter have in line fuse holders.

4. Centerboard trunk On floor of salon, with cleat and line for raising/lowering the centerboard. At dock, centerboard is stowed “up” at the dock.

5. Salon Table -- mounted on the V-Berth bulkhead. Latch is on starboard side. Stowed latched “up”.

6. Navigation Table on starboard side of sink. Panel locks with pin. Removing the pin allows panel to be rotated horizontally. There is no lock for the “open” position. Stowed in the locked position.

7. Chart & Navigation Rules & Operations Manual -- on shelf behind Navigation table.

8. Salon Drawers (one each, in port and starboard walls under the seats). The starboard drawer is used to hold the radar reflector. The port drawer is used to contain safety equipment (Flares, Signal Gun Kit with Distress flag inside and First Aid Kit).

9. Fire extinguisher -- mounted on bulkhead next to companionway.

10. Cabin lights are mounted on the V-berth bulkhead.

11. Temperature & Humidity Gauges and a Barometer are mounted on starboard side of V-berth bulkhead.

12. Boat Pole and Horseshoe are stored in cabin when boat is at dock. Remove and secure on deck before leaving dock.

When looking into the V-Berth, note the following equipment:

1. Hanging Locker (starboard, immediately inside V-Berth Door). Locker contains 5 cushions, a fire extinguisher, toilet paper, head cleaner/disinfectant and an empty sailbag (for the mainsail – the bag has the word “main” on it.)

2. Box of Lines – plastic crate on floor of V-Berth. The heavy purple “doubled-up” lines are the jib sheets; the remaining lines and bungees are spares.

3. 4 (full) Sail Bags (3 jibs and spinnaker. The round bag is for the spinnaker, the orange for the working jib and the other blue bag is marked is used for the genoa.)

4. Anchor Line “Locker” -- plastic crate, sitting on the port side under the bow. The anchor line is fed from/to this box through a deck fitting.

5. Spinnaker pole, Whisker pole stowed on the starboard side of the V-berth. The Spinnaker pole is the thicker of the two.

6. Port a Potty – latched to floor on port side of V-Berth.

7. Main Hatch on ceiling of V-Berth. Hatch is “locked” when “latch” is parallel to the deck.

8. V-Berth Door -- sliding door, slides from port to starboard. Door reported as jammed.

9. V-Berth Storage compartments under the cushions, port and starboard. These compartments are empty and can be used for stowing personal items.

2.6 Thru-Hulls, Access to the Bilge

1. 3 Thru-Hulls – cockpit drain, depth transducer and knot-meter transducer. The cockpit drain is under the cockpit floor and can be accessed through the port Lazarette. The depth and knot-meter transducers are in the V-berth and can be accessed by taking out the port storage compartment tray.

2. Bilge Access – the bilge can be accessed through either Lazarette and by pulling out any of the under the seat storage compartments in the Salon and/or V-berth.

2.7 At the Engine

When standing at the engine, take note of the following.

1. Engine Bracket: The engine is mounted on an adjustable bracket, which is bolted to the transom of the boat. This bracket has a red raise and lower switch on the arm connected to the boat.

2. Gear Shift and Throtle are mounted on the steering arm. Clockwise will shift into reverse and throttle increase; counterclockwise rotation will shift into forward and throttle increase. Always leave the engine in Neutral starting position.

3. Steering Arm on the port side of the engine. Steering arm can be raised and lowed – stow the boat with the arm up. Note: the engine will not start with the steering arm up – always lower the steering arm before starting. The throttle and gear shift is mounted at the end of the steering arm. Throttle has a clearly marked position for “starting” the engine. The Kill Switch is the red button mounted at the end of the steering arm.

4. Choke, Idle speed and Fuel Line Coupling – These are arranged across the bottom of the engine, just above bracket. The choke and idle speed is a black knob, pull out for choke, turn clockwise to increase idle speed. Fuel line coupling is a two prong fitting on r=front of engine. Slide fuel line onto fitting and insure it clips on with a click sound. When returning to dock remove fuel line and secure in cockpit, continue to run engine until all fuel in engine is burned.

5. Lifting handle is the black U-shaped bracket across the front of the engine and just below the choke control. Note: Use the lifting handle, not the steering arm, to raise the engine.

6. Tilt Adjustment Knob and Tilt Lock – Do not adjust the tilt of engine.

7. Starter Rope – handle at the top of the engine. Always check that the gearshift is in Neutral and that the steering arm is down before pulling the starter rope – it will be very difficult to pull if either is out of position.

8. Engine Cover and Latch – The guts of the engine are covered with a black housing. There is a release latch at the bottom aft end of the housing.

9. Fuel Line comes out of a hole in the port side of the cockpit. The fuel line is stowed with the coupling hanging down in cockpit but not on cockpit floor. The fuel line should NOT be left connected to the engine at the dock.

3.0 Suggested Operating Procedures

3.1 Getting Started

1. Open all three locks (companionway and Lazarettes). Remove the two companionway panels and stow in port Lazarette. Stow the locks in the center cabin drawer.

2. Open the forward cabin hatch (flip the “latch” down to release the catch and push up on the hatch.)

3. Drop the centerboard.

4. Turn on the VHF radio. It is good practice to tune in the weather report (channel 1) while preparing the boat. Also, this will verify that the battery is OK. Also, check that the depth comes on. Note: The depth meter is indicating the full water depth. With the centerboard down, any reading less than about 6 feet indicates that you are likely to run aground. (With the centerboard up, readings less than 3 feet indicate a likely grounding).

5. Bring the Bilge Pump handle, winch handle (into winch handle holder) and air horn (ready for signaling departure) on deck. (All are in the “behind the sink” compartment).

6. Pump out the bilge. If it takes more than a few pumps to empty the bilge (once the pump is primed and water is flowing) check to see if there are any visible leaks around any of the through hulls.

7. Remove compass and depth meter cover and store below (fits in the “behind the sink” compartment).

8. Unlash the tiller.

9. Stow your gear below deck. When stowing gear, be mindful that the boat will heel substantially under sail.

10. NOTE: FOR INSURANCE PURPOSES, IF THERE IS ANYONE ON YOUR TRIP THAT IS NOT A SEAS MEMBER, THEY MUST SIGN A RELEASE FORM. SEE APPENDIX FOR AN EXAMPLE OF THE FORM. THERE IS A SECTION OF THE ONBOARD COPY OF THIS OPERATION MANUAL THAT HAS BLANK FORMS. LEAVE THE SIGNED FORM IN THE EMPTY POCKET AT THE BACK OF THE ONBOARD MANUAL.

3.2 Starting the Engine

Note: Before starting the engine, it is good practice to verify that there is sufficient fuel on board for your planned activity (including a reserve). See section on Fuel Management below for some suggested planning techniques.

1. Double check that the tiller is unlashed, that the centerboard is down, that the engine tilt lock is locked and that the engine is in Neutral and that the Steering Arm is in the down position. Note: you will not be able to pull on the starter cord if the boat is in gear.

2. Lower the engine. This is accomplished by flipping the red raise & lower switch to the lower position. Then, using the lifting handle, pull up till you hear a click; push the engine down into the water until you hear a click then pull up to verify that the engine is locked in the down position.

3. Connect the gas line, open the vent on the gas tank and squeeze the pump bulb on the hose a few times. To connect the gas line, pull back the cover on the fitting on the end of the hose, plug the fitting into the gas connector on the engine and then, release the cover. Double check that the hose is secure on the engine – it is easy to “think” you have connected it when you haven’t. An easy tug on the gas line will tell you whether all is well.

4. To start the engine, double check that the steering arm is down and that the engine is in Neutral. Then, pull the choke out, twist the throttle to the start position (clearly marked on the steering arm) and pull the starter cord a few times. The engine should start right up. If it doesn’t, double check that the choke is out and that the throttle is positioned properly and that the fuel line is connected and the bulb has pressure.

Once the engine starts, lower the throttle while the engine warms up. If it starts to flutter, try pushing in the choke to get it to run more smoothly.

If while trying to start the engine, you flood it (smell of gas is in the air), you can try disconnecting the gas line, pumping the starter cord a few times and then reconnecting the gas line. This should clear excess gas from the cylinders. Another tactic to clear a flooded engine is to wait (perhaps 15 minutes) before retrying.

5. Once the motor has started, check that a stream of cooling water is being pumped out the stern of the engine. If no water is present, stop the engine, raise it and clear any debris that is blocking the intake port on the shaft (on the bottom of the anti-cavitation plate – which is the horizontal plate immediately above the prop).

6. It will take a few minutes for the engine to warm up, at which time you can push the choke in (it will likely run rough if you don’t).

Note: You may need to use the choke to restart the engine, even if it is warm. Try to restart without the choke but, if the engine doesn’t restart after 4 or so pulls, try with the choke. However, once warm the choke should be immediately shut off for the engine to run smoothly.

3.3 Stowing the engine

1. While the engine is running, disconnect the gas line and close the vent on the fuel tank. Let the engine run until it is out of gas. NOTE: it is very important to double check that the vents on the fuel tanks are closed. If vents are left open, fumes can collect in the bilge and cause a dangerous, potentially explosive, situation

2. Raise the engine. This is accomplished by flipping the red raise and lower switch to raise, Using the lifting handle, push down on the engine until you hear a click, raise the engine up out of the water until you hear another click and then push down to verify the engine is locked in its up position.

3. Verify that there is at least one full tank of fuel on the boat.

Note: In general, it is not necessary to replace the fuel you have used on a trip UNLESS there is less than one FULL fuel tank on board. ----- IN THAT CASE, COURTESY AND POLICY IS THAT YOU REFILL THE EMPTY FUEL TANK. ---- If desired, SEAS Monmouth will reimburse you for the fuel. See the section on Fuel Replenishment below for how to replace fuel.

3.4 Rigging the Sails:

Note: It’s good practice to check the rigging and prepare the sails at the dock – especially for a boat that is shared and where you are not always sure as to how the person before you left it. The suggested procedure is to prepare the sails at the dock.

3.4.1 Preparing the Main (suggest you do this at the dock):

1. Decide whether to reef for the expected conditions (Remember, the best policy is to reef early and reef often). The main has one reefing point, about 1/3 of the way up the sail.

2. Remove the sail cover. Untie the mainsheet from the aft end of the boom. Center the traveler. Disconnect the main halyard shackle from the stantion and connect it to the head of the main. Secure the main halyard.

3. If you are going to reef, release the sail ties and check that the reefing lines are properly run, The reefing line at the mast runs through the reefing cringle in sail and is secure to a cleat on the mast. The aft line should run through the aft reefing cringle on the sail, run down to the block on the boom and then forward to the reefing cleat. There are three reefing ties on the body of the sail. Now is the time to lash them to the boom.

Finally, put at least one sail tie back on the main to keep it in place until you are ready to raise the sails.

3.4.2 Preparing the Jib (suggest you do this at the dock):

1. Pick a jib for the expected conditions and get the jib sheets.

2. Connect the foot to the jib tack shackle (on the deck at the bow), hank the luff of the sail on and then remove the jib halyard shackle from the bow pulpit and connect to the head. Secure jib halyard until you are ready to raise the sails. Secure the jib on deck with a bungee cord until you are ready to raise the sails. Connect the shackle of the jib sheets to the clew of the jib.

3. If you are using the working (smaller) jib, the sheets go through the blocks on the forward jib tracks. If you are using the genoa, the sheets run through the blocks on the aft jib tracks and then through the turning block mounted on the outside of cockpit coaming. In both cases, be sure the sheets are run outside of the shrouds and over the lifelines before the line is brought back to the blocks under the lifelines.

3.4.3 Getting Under Sail (assuming you prepared the sails as described above):

1. For the mainsail, remove the sail ties. Raise the mainsail, using the winch to tighten the luff (if appropriate for the conditions). Optionally, you can leave the main halyard stowed on the winch and cleat it off on the starboard mid cleat. Release the aft end of the boom from the topping lift.

Note: The working jib can generally be raised and pulled tight (enough) without requiring the winch. To properly tighten the genoa luff, however, you will likely need the (single) winch on the mast. To do this, you will have to take the main halyard off the winch and cleat it without losing (much) tension on its luff – hard to do.

2. For the jib, remove the bungee cord; raise the jib, cleat halyard off on mid-mast cleat (generally, over the main halyard).

3. Raise the engine to eliminate its drag on the boat. Note: when the engine is raised on the engine bracket, the prop is still dragging in the water. You can use the engine tilt controls to eliminate this drag. To so this, flip the tilt lock over to port, pull the tilt adjustment knob out, reach over the cover and pull up on the back of the engine. The engine will tilt up. Push in the knob to lock the engine in the desired tilted position. To put the engine back down, pull up on the back of the engine, pull out on the tilt adjustment knob, lower the engine into the water and flip the tilt lock back over to starboard.

3.5 Fuel Management

Note: In general, it is not necessary to replace the fuel you have used on a trip UNLESS there is less than one FULL fuel tank on board. In that case, COURTESY AND POLICY is that you refill the empty fuel tank. If desired, SEAS Monmouth will reimburse you for the fuel.

3.5.1 Fuel Planning

a. A conservative rule of thumb is that the motor consumes roughly 1.5 gal/hr running at full throttle. (This needs to be verified but is a good starting point). You can therefore plan on roughly 4.0 nautical miles per 1.5 gallon of gas. 2) Plan on using 1/3 of your gas to get to your destination, 1/3 to return, and 1/3 for emergencies. With 6 gallons of fuel, you should therefore not plan on traveling more than 5 nautical miles (one way) without extra fuel. Note: If winds and currents are strong, increase the fuel estimate for your trip. For example, if you go back and forth to Sandy Hook Bay against the current – a common occurrence -- plan on using 2 gallons per hour. A good practice is to have both tanks full when going to the Bay.

On long trips, after using one can of fuel, it’s good practice to determine how far you traveled, and what the actual average distance per gallon was before using connecting the second can.

b. Finally, it is good practice to monitor the gas used during your trip by looking at the gauge and lifting up the can to feel by the weight. This is especially true before entering critical situations such as going under bridges, boat congestion, etc. It is far better to change gas cans before you enter these situations than to have to do it when you are in the middle of them.

3.5.2 Fuel replenishment

NOTE: THE ENGINE IS 2-STROKE THAT REQUIRES A 50:1 FUEL TO OIL MIXTURE. USE UNLEADED REGULAR (I.E., NOT PLUS OR PREMIUM) GAS.

“Outboard Motor Oil” and a plastic graduated measuring bottle are both stowed under the sink in the basket. The measuring bottle is used to measure the amount of oil for the 50:1 gas/oil mixture ratio.

Procedure:

�.a. Remove both fuel cans from the port lazarette – note, the lazarette opening has been modified to allow the cans to be raised and lowered in a horizontal position – you should not have to turn them on their side.

�.b. If both cans are partially filled, pour contents of one can into the other until the first one is empty, or the second is full. This makes it easier to estimate the needed fuel, i.e., an empty can is 6 gallons. Also, if you add gas to two cans, you either have to measure oil twice, or divide the oil accurately between the two cans. Note: A Good practice is to leave some space at the top of the cans to allow for handling and expansion – i.e., don’t fill the cans to the brim – leave about 0.5-1”” of free space on top.

�.c. Estimate the required amount of gas. For this amount find the fill line on the measurement bottle corresponding to a 50:1 ratio, and fill with oil to this level. Pour the oil into the gas can prior to adding the gasoline. This allows the turbulence of adding the gas to mix the oil and gas better.

�.d. Double check that both fuel caps and the vents in the caps are closed. Place the refilled cans back into the lazarette. NOTE: it is very important to double check that the fuel vents on the gas caps are closed. If vents are left open, fumes can collect in the bilge and cause a dangerous, potentially explosive, situation.

3.5.3 Operating and Cleaning the Port-A-Potty (the Head)

Note: If the head is used during a trip, courtesy and policy requires that you clean it.

a. The head is latched to the floor of the V-Berth. Operating instructions are printed on the cover of the head. Toilet paper and disinfectant are stowed on the floor of the hanging locker.

b. The head consists of two “bottles” – an upper one and a lower one. Each bottle has a handle and a cap. The upper bottle contains the bowl and the CLEAN water. The lower bottle contains the waste (after flushing). In brief, the way it works is that you do your business, pump some fresh water into the bowl (pump is on left rear of seat) and then “flush” (by pulling out and pushing in the handle on the front of the head – this is the flush valve). The flush empties the bowl (which is in the upper bottle) into the lower bottle.

c. The two bottles can be latched together with the same latches that hold it to the floor. When latched together, the whole unit can be carried on its side, by the bottle handles. Once the latches are off, pulling them apart separates the containers. Note: Be careful that the flush valve is closed when you pull them apart.

At the end of a trip where the head has been used, use the following cleaning procedure:

1. Unlatch the head from the V-Berth floor and carry the whole unit onto the dock.

2. Remove the bottom bottle (i.e., the waste). (The two bottles just pull apart if the latches are open). Take it to a bathroom and pour it into a toilet.

3. Hose the waste bottle out thoroughly. Refill the CLEAN water bottle (upper section). Follow directions on disinfectant cans to add disinfectant.

4. Put two bottles back together, return unit to V-Berth and latch it to the deck.

3.6 Closing Up the Boat

As mentioned earlier, please leave the boat the way you found it: docked stern in, everything put back where you found it, sink and head cleaned, etc. See the “Leaving the Boat the Way you found it” checklist for the details.

Leaving the Boat the Way You Found It

1. Sails

�.a. Mainsail flaked on boom.

�.b. Main halyard shackled to stanchion base and cleated on mast cleat.

�.c. Sail ties on. Sail Cover on.

�.d. Boom clipped to topping lift.

�.e. Jib Halyard shackled to stanchion base or port bow pulpit and cleated on mast cleat.

�.f. Jib Tack shackle closed, on forestay.

�.g. Traveler cleated.

�.h. Mainsheet coiled neatly and hanging from aft end of boom.

�.i. Jib Sheets coiled neatly and returned to Box of Lines on V-berth floor

�.j. Jib flaked and stowed in proper sail bag and sail bag left in V-Berth.

2. Below

�.k. All switches on electrical panel in off position.

�.l. Centerboard up

�.m. Main hatch closed and locked (latch horizontal)

�.n. Icebox cleaned out, sponged out and left open to air out. Sink cleaned.

�.o. Head cleaned and refilled (if used).

�.p. All personal belongings removed from inside boat.

3. In Port Lazarette

.q. Vents closed on both fuel tanks.

4. On Deck

�.r. Engine locked in raised position, gearshift in neutral, Steering arm raised, no tilt.

�.s. Fuel line secured n cockpit (not dangling on the floor).

�.t. Tiller lashed to starboard.

�.u. Bilge pumped out. Bilge pump handle stowed in the “behind-the-sink” compartment.

�.v. Compass and depthmeter Covered

�.w. Safety Horseshoe and line stowed in cabin.

�.x. Anchor secured; anchor line fed through deck fitting and cap replaced.

�.y. Cockpit cushions stowed in hanging locker. Boat hook stowed in cabin. Horn, winch handle, bell stowed in “behind the sink” compartment.

.aa. Check to ensure that any other equipment is properly stowed. (e.g., fenders, lifejackets, extra lines, bottle openers, etc).

.bb. Boat left in clean condition – e.g., hose down the cockpit, clean out the sink, clean any on-deck or below deck spills, etc. Please try to leave the boat in better shape than you found it.

5. At the Dock

.cc. Boat docked with the Bow out.

.dd. All 7 docking lines firmly secured to cleats (3 bow line clips to bow eye, 2 stern lines and two spring lines clipped to stanchion base).

.ee. Check that the boat floats free of the dock. Pull on the boat to verify this.

.ff. Two Fenders between boat and aft pilings.

.gg. Lifeline gates all closed and secured.

.hh. Lazarettes and Cabin closed and locked.

Appendix II

Pre-Departure Checklist

1. All locks stowed.

2. Centerboard down

3. Bilge pumped out

4. Compass and Depthneter uncovered, covers stowed.

5. Safety Horseshoe in bracket with bitter end of line secured to boat.

6. Tiller untied

7. Checked VHF Radio and weather.

8. Motor lowered, gas line connected, and air vent opened on gas can.

9. Motor successfully started, cooling water coming out back of engine.

10. Air horn on deck

11. Personal gear stowed.

	*Appendix III*
	SEAS Monmouth
	Release of Liability

Name:

Street:

City, Zip:

Phone:

The undersigned recognizes that sailing involves certain inherent risks, and agrees to hold harmless and release from liability SEAS Monmouth and/or its members and instructors for any injury or damage suffered.

Signed: Date: